YOUNG RIDERS
Quick Tips for Safer Riding
Give yourself space
People driving cars often just don’t see motorcycles. Even when drivers do see you, chances are they’ve never been on a motorcycle and can’t properly judge your speed.
Be visible
Remember that motorists often have trouble seeing motorcycles and reacting in time.
Make sure your headlight works and is on day and night.
Use reflective strips or decals on your clothing and on your motorcycle.
Be aware of the blind spots cars and trucks have.
Flash your brake light when you are slowing down and before stopping.
If a motorist doesn’t see you, don’t be afraid to use your horn.
Dress for safety
Wear a quality helmet and eye protection.
Wear bright clothing and a light-coloured helmet.
Wear leather or other thick, protective clothing.
Choose long sleeves and pants, over-the-ankle boots, and gloves.
Remember – the only thing between you and the road is your protective gear.
Use your head
Constantly scan the road for changing conditions.
Give yourself space and time to respond to other motorists’ actions.
Give other motorists time and space to respond to you.
Use lane positioning to be seen; ride in the part of a lane where you are most visible.
Watch for turning vehicles.
Signal your next move in advance.
Avoid weaving between lanes.
Pretend you’re invisible, and ride extra defensively.
Don’t ride when you are tired or under the influence of alcohol or other drugs.
Know and follow the rules of the road.
Stay within the speed limit.
Know your bike and how to use it
Get formal training and take refresher courses.
Driving Licences
UK driving licences are issued by the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency, and full information regarding the type of licence you need for different types of vehicle and any age restrictions that apply are published on the government website
There’s also a wealth of information from applying for your first provisional licence, information about riding tests right through to things you should know about driving in other countries on a GB licence.
Bike Maintenance
Tips for a systematic bike health check
Brakes
Squeeze the levers and pedals, check for firm resistance before the lever or pedal reaches maximum travel. With hydraulic brakes, pumping the lever or pedal several times in quick succession will ensure that the brake pads are in the ideal position to stop you most effectively. Inspect the pads, making sure they’re not too low and check discs for excessive scoring, rust or blue colouring. Spin the wheel; it should rotate freely and the disc shouldn’t wobble from side to side. Push the bike forwards and make sure that each brake pulls it up. They are your lifeline.
Electrics
Turn the ignition switch and start the engine. Ensure the headlight, main beam, tail-light, indicators, brake light and horn are all working. Note whether the fuel gauge, tacho and instruments are behaving. Do you know where the fuses live? If something doesn’t work it may be a corroded fuse that needs replacing — check these first as it may save an expensive bill.
Steering
Pull the bike onto its centre stand (if it has one) and raise the front wheel off the ground. The bars should move from lock to lock with minimum effort, no notchiness or stickiness, and without trapping any cables, wires or control hoses. You are out of DIY territory if the headset needs replacement.
Tyres
Are pressures correct? Are the tyres cold? Is the gauge accurate? If affirmative, then measure the tread depth near the apex of the tyre. It must be at least 1mm for a motorcycle all the way round the circumference in the middle 75—percent of the tread pattern. The remaining tread pattern on the shoulders must be visible. Having checked the pressures, examine the treads and remove grit as this will affect your grip dramatically and prevent potential punctures. Check sidewalls for splits and signs of perishing. Never forget that your tyres are the only contact you have with the road and it’s a pretty small contact patch. If in doubt play safe and invest in new ones. It’s worth regularly deflating the tyre completely and re-inflating it, as, believe it or not, fresh air can affect the handling significantly Tyre pressures fluctuate according to the weather; temperature, and also your riding style.
Chain
Make sure it’s correctly tensioned according to the Owner’s Manual: too tight is as bad as too loose. Lubricate it if necessary to ease links and suppress rust. Scooter riders: out of sight should not be out of mind, so pop the cover off and look at your drive belt. Does it look ragged? If so get a new one fitted sharpish!
Oil
All lubricants, including 2-stroke, gearbox, wheel bearings and brake fluids, should look clear and golden and be at the correct levels in their reservoirs. Don’t overfill, as too much is almost as bad as too little. Basically if it moves, oil or grease it regularly and comprehensively Lubrication covers many things other than greasing or squirting WD-40. Use the correct oil or lubricant for specific places, as shown in your user’s manual. Beware of excessive grease on brake pistons or brake discs as this will stop them working.
Petrol
Check the fuel level. If your bike is not properly filled and kept fresh, it just won’t go anywhere. Contrary to popular belief that it lasts indefinitely petrol stored over time will degrade. Its octane rating will fall, which means it’s less likely to burn This is not so important with older kick-start 2—strokes, but it does really affect later model 4-strokes. In cases of long-term neglect petrol can turn into a green waxy sludge that will block your fuel taps, lines, filters, right through to carburettors or injectors. Containerised grey imports sitting dockside for long periods are vulnerable to this. It‘s a long, laborious process to clean it out, so get into the habit of turning the fuel tap OFF (if it has one). Consider draining the tank if the bike is going to be stored for a period of time, though you need to think about this carefully because a full tank has the benefit of preventing oxidation.
Suspension
Apply firm downward pressure to the front and rear of the bike, separately while the brakes are on. The suspension should travel down, then up and then settle straight away — in just those three stages. More or less movement usually indicates a fault that will need professional attention.
Battery
Is it sealed for life? If not, how’s the fluid level? If you need to top it up only use distilled water. If the battery will start the bike with the lights on from cold then it’s OK. A more thorough check is with a volt meter, looking for 12.75 volts up to a maximum of 13 volts if good or brand new; 12.45 volts or less indicates a battery that should be condemned. If the battery is flat, why is that? Is your charger faulty?
Basic Checks on You Tube - From South Yorkshire Safer Roads Partnership
Our colleagues in South Yorkshire have teamed up with You Tubers Mech’It Better to produce a series of basic maintenance and adjustments videos for your motorbike or scooter. If you’re new to riding, there are some great tips here:
